Changing Gears: September 2010

After a fantastic lunch of homemade pizza's with Michael's family in Graz, the sun was shining, the temperature rather perfect, we decided to pack our bikes and start riding. Tempted to stay another night (thanks again to Michael's generosity) and climb with Michael and Nicolas, but the weather and skies won and our pedaling west began. Heading toward the Dolomites, we followed the Drau river, up valley, riding along bike paths, dipping in and out of little Austrian towns, amongst trees or vineyards and few people most of the time. The little towns were all clean, the only downfall for the eyes was maybe the clear cutting we saw along the way. Unfortunately this scene is much the same in Oregon, Washington and Alaska. Bummer. We rode down one lane roads between towns that encased us with 8 foot tall corn stalks and vineyards sitting along the rolling hills, which of course we took advantage of and tasted when we could. Trying to take full advantage of everything, we even stayed until noon some days to enjoy the waterslides at the campgrounds. Right up our alley!
It took us about a week to reach the western side of Austria where we found a great campground, free wifi, pool with a waterslide (again, we are really just big kids), and grocery store a few kilometers away. Because of this, we decided to stay for some laundry (you have no idea how fantastic clean clothes feel!) and basic clean-up of our possessions. Because of all the rain we hit in Germany and Austria for about a month, our tent and pads were starting to get a touch of mold. Finding a combo of lemon and salt as a fix, we even got to clean our tent and pads. We also realized at this point that we had slept in our tent about 120 days by now. Wow! 120 days in a tent. That's a record for both of us in such a short timeframe. But again, I think we both prefer to sleep in our tent as it's really our home. It's simply second nature for us to set up and take down. We probably wouldn't even have to speak to get everything just perfect, it's so natural for us. We both have our "duties" that makes it quick and simple.
Deciding to stay for 2 nights was nice as always as a break from sitting on our seats for 7 days is always embraced with open arms. Well, we woke on a Sunday planning to leave as 1. it's nice to ride on Sunday's since everything in Europe is closed, and 2. it was my birthday and I wanted to be in the Dolomites for it. Oh yeah, funny little story. As I'm walking to the bathroom brushing my teeth along the way, I hear a horn beeping like crazy and a white van driving like a bat out of hell down the road that only leads to the campground. Mind you, this is 8am, and on a Sunday. Walking back to the tent, I see a line of maybe 15-20 people behind this white van that was just flying down the street blaring it's horn. it's the local bread company! Awesome! Fresh bread to start our morning. It's already looking up in our eyes. Gotta love Europeans and how much they love their fresh bread and pastries, oh yeah, and coffee. Well, we start packing our bikes and Ryan says, "Where is my sandal?" This being his biking shoe, keen sandals that have clips for our pedals. Although we look everywhere, no luck. I'm thinking it was probably a dog or something and maybe someone turned it into the front reception. Now, trying to explain this to someone who doesn't speak English is quite a task. She is looking at me like I have 8 heads, squinting her eyes, and I can see the wheels turning in her head trying to make of a shoe and bike and it being gone. A gentleman walks up, Australian accent, translate to her and turns to me and says, "We saw a few fox our tent last night and one had a sandal in their mouth. You might want to check the field over there." What?!
I walk back to the tent, explain to Ryan what could have possibly happened, and he, myself and the owner of the campground are all on the other side of the fence looking in this HUGE field for a single shoe. Overgrown grass, flowers, and a cornfield not far that stretched for miles. Between the 3 of us, we did find shoes, three to be exact. And oddly enough, Ryan and the owner actualy found a match between the two of them, one in the grass field and one in the cornfield. But, no luck on Ryan's shoe. Ugh! How frustrating. At least it wasn't someone who had stolen it, that was actually a huge plus. What a story though! Foxes are such thieves.
Because of the fox and missing shoe, we stayed yet another day in hopes of finding a replacement in the town along the way into Italy. No luck, and now it's technically 6 weeks later and no replacement has been made. Ryan rides with one sandal and one tennis shoe. You should see the looks.

Austrian's are some of the nicest, most generous people, small town mentality type of people. We were heading south after Linz (thanks again Christine and Matt for having us!) toward Slovenia. Riding for a solid 80k we stopped in this tiny village of 500 people for food and to ask about camping within biking range before dark. The woman behind the meat counter couldn't speak English well but she could understand. She said, "There is camping about 20k from here, but I think you could stay at the airport right down the street if you stay for just one night. I'll call." (well that's what sign language and few English words amounted to) Wow! Thank you meat lady! We rode two blocks to the glider airport to find 4 or 5 men sitting on the back deck drinking beers and watching the sunset through the amazing mountains. The older man was obviously the one in charge and told us where we could set up our tent and to come back for a beer. Of course we were in for that. Cold beer on tap, yep. Well, one beer turned into about 8, and before we knew it it was midnight. We had such a great time! And these men changed our route toward Slovenia. They told us to head more southeast toward Graz for an easier and more beautiful route, following the Mur river into wineland. It rained like cats and dogs that night, but they cooked us breakfast in the morning before we were on our way. All of this for 14 euro's. Great company. Great beer from the next town over. And a delicious breakfast. I love Austria!
Read more »