Thursday, March 29, 2012

First days in Guatemala

A 20 minute ride on a rocky, dirt path to the Immigration office, our passports were stamped and we were introduced to the Guatemalan culture. The Immigration officers consisted of 3 men standing outside a small structure. One carried an automatic rifle while the other two just kind of hung out. All three were extremely outgoing and poked fun at one another (at least that is what we gathered with our broken Spanish). Hearing that the road continued on as a rocky, dirt path for 80k, we opted for the chicken bus. Another experience we have been looking forward to.

The bus jerked around trying to avoid the enormous potholes, stopping at the roadside stands to down two or three coco frios and rapidly picked up and dropped off passengers. It was a well oiled process and all the while, cars passing, locals outside there home, all were part of a laughing and joking community.

We got off the bus just outside of Flores, an island in the middle of a lake. People we met did not have much to say about Flores, but we really enjoyed the cobble streets, cafes, views over the lake, swimming and food stands along the water. Although planning on staying for a night, each morning we woke and chose to stay another night. A day spent in Tikal was worth the 2 hour shuttle ride due to a local protest forcing us to detour.

Palenque was beautiful, but Tikal was something entirely different. Tikal sits amongst the vast jungle with Mayan ruins sporadically placed over a fairly large distance. We climbed one ruin that allowed us to see for miles and enjoy the ruins peaking above the trees. Ryan and I would highly recommend making the journey and pack a lunch to spend a full day exploring as you are welcome to go in most of the ruins.

Staying in Flores for a total of 4 nights, we then set off at 7am toward Poptun to avoid the heat of the day. The road was smooth and had little traffic in comparison to many other routes. Helmets off, we cruised through small towns, constantly being called gringos as the locals waved and the kids chased after us on our bikes. I cannot imagine what celebrities go through and have gained an appreciation for their desire of privacy.

Reading ahead of time, we found an amazing ecotourism ranch a few miles south of Poptun. Riding around the airport (that looks nothing like an airport because it only consists of a dirt runway), we found Finca Ixobel to set up camp for the night. This converted ranch offers places to stay such as tree houses, dorm rooms, private rooms and camping spots. Fresh bread is made daily and the meals are reasonably priced. Meeting fellow travellers, the 5 of us paid a tour guide to lead us on a two hour hike through jungle to a cave. We changed into our bathing suits, leaving on our shoes and adding a headlamp. The guide lit candles and placed them on the ledges to light our way. Our first few steps into the cave and we were submerged in water and our swimming began. Switching from swimming to wading to swimming, we explored the cave and oohed and ahhed at the flowstone walls, stalagmites and stalactites presented before us. Bats flew as we crossed their way and catfish swam around our feet. An hour in, we were given the option to jump 20 feet into a small pool of water. A bit scared and the 4th one to jump, I just went for it. Phew, glad that was over but was worth getting through the fear of jumping. The end of the cave has an enormous swimming pool where at the far end has a rope. Following the rope, one can give over all faith and follow the river where it dips into a tunnel submerged in water, close to 9 feet, and find themselves on the other side in another pool room. Ryan wanting to push himself, grabbed onto the rope and after 3 tries, found himself on the other side of the dark cave. Nobody else had the guts (or too much sense) to follow. Not much oxygen in the chamber beyond so Ryan turned around quickly and swam back.

2 hours of exploring the cave and we were back in the jungle heading toward the ranch. I would highly recommend this place to stay and guided tour. It was amazing and I am wishing we had stayed longer to enjoy the amenities. If you are heading to Guatemala, make a stop here for an extremely relaxing stay at Finca Ixobell.

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