Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Huatulco to San Cristobal

Leaving Huatulco, we were offered a lift in our new friends awesome 1985 Winnebago, top of the line when it was made in 1985, all 50 some odd feet of it. We could get used to travelling like this. Maybe other RV'ers might consider it old compared to their modern, shiny rigs, but in reality it is quite perfect when travelling in an area where the average wage is less than $5 a day. Plus, Russ has no fear of taking this vehicle down roads and dirt tracks that other RVs have probably never been before in his search for uninhabited beaches. Well done Russ.

Similar to our travels, Debbie and Russ go without a plan and stop when they feel like stopping. Leaving on a Tuesday morning, Russ said we could either be at our stop by 1pm or the following day depending on if we found a deserted beach. Maybe not entirely deserted, but the beach where we spent 3 nights was used primarily by local fisherman in their pangas and the occasional car of locals that stopped to enjoy the waves and beauty. The 4 of us were in heaven and spent our days walking the white sandy beaches (mounds of rocks separated several different beaches all along this section of the Pacific), playing a homemade version of Backgammon, eating, drinking, sharing stories, reading and soaking up the scenery of sun and moon rises and massive size birds. Finding a palapa that was once home to a comedor before the Japanese tsunami washed it and its tables away (why did we not ever hear of this?), we had shade and great company. Our "home" was fantastic and we even purchased fresh fish from the pangas that was absolutely delicious. One of the fish, a Sierra was a great reminder of how easy it is to make ceviche.

Russ and Debbie dropped us off in a town where we opted for a bus to escape from the heat and intense winds. Riding along the coast was gorgeous, but the heat made it pretty much unbearable. People often ask us if we lose credit to catch a ride and our response is always, "we have no credit" and our philosophy in life is if you aren't happy with where you are, change something. Air conditioning and a movie in Spanish, we were given a ride through the stretch of 100k of intense winds, out of the heat and uphill. It was worth every penny.

A night stopover in Tuxtla, we were given a ride by an extremely friendly couple in the back of a chicken truck. Riding at night is not optimal, so after 45 minutes of this, we stopped to ask for directions and a young couple offered their vehicle. We lucked out again and found a reasonable place to stay before catching an hour ride up to San Cristobal. Although we had originally planned to climb the 2000 meters up to San Cristobal, the projected temperatures of 95 degrees deterred us. Well that and the fact that the bus only cost 76 pesos, about $6.50 for the both of us including our gear. Two fantastic weeks of conversing with people from around the world and luxury living along the coast, we were ready to get back on the bikes to enjoy the beauty in the mountains.

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