Tuesday, July 31, 2012

New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island

Jean, the woman who invited us to camp in her backyard, offered for us to join her, her sister and brother-in-law for dinner on the back deck. We happily accepted and spent a wonderful evening eating delicious food with great company. Just what we needed. Being on the road is absolutely a fantastic life, something I would not trade for the world, but it does get a bit redundant at times. Nights like these are rejuvenating and often give us an extra little pep in our pedal and conversations.

We woke early to buckwheat pancakes and coffee. Thank you again, Jean. What a host at such an opportune time. Shower. Laundry. Conversation. Food. What else could we possibly need in life? The road outside of Shediac was fairly terrible, many potholes and cracks and plenty of cars. This continued 22k to the main highway. Most people want the quiet roads, always avoiding any major highway. The tranquility is welcomed but the highway does offer big shoulders and smooth pavement. Oddly enough, I tend to feel safer on the major roads for these reasons as well.

We spent most of the day on the back roads, covering miles surrounded by farms and forests and the occasional motorcycle. Blue skies and temperatures in the 70's made for a perfect day on the bike. The cooler temperatures have definitely increased our appetites. Here is our list of food split between the 2 of us: 4 pancakes, 1 whole chicken, 1 large bag of potato chips, 2L Sprite, footlong sub, can of sardines with 2 tortillas, and 2 tortillas with peanut butter. This is a lot of food, yes? Well, I am sitting in the tent dreaming of what I can eat in the morning. Our appetites are in full force. What I wouldn't give for a brownie sundae right about now.

Crossing over to Prince Edward Island can be done via boat if coming from Nova Scotia or by bridge coming from New Brunswick. A private company built the bridge which was completed in 1997, charges cars $44, bicyclists $8.75 and walker $4.50 when they exit the island to pay for the cost of the bridge which is estimated to be paid off in 35 years. The 13 kilometer bridge is the longest in the western hemisphere and is quite a stunner but does not allow bicyclists of pedestrians. We rode to the information center that sits close to the bridge where they provide a phone to call the shuttle if it is not waiting outside. Within 15 minutes, our bikes and gear were loaded and we were on our way to one of the most beautiful spots I have ever seen.


A bike path leads all over the island, covering 400 kilometers (roughly 260 miles) of designated lanes. These paths are not paved but have packed dirt to make for easy riding. The best word I can use to describe PEI is "Wow". We rode through farmlands that grow the most beautiful flowers that give off a scent that makes you just want to stop and soak in their flavor. Acres of pinks flowers cover a small hill that sits in front of some lush green produce. A farm house sits off in the distance along with barrels of hay. It is a breath-taking, pastoral setting.

We came across a playground at a town hosting about 15 homes. There was a small zip line, so of course I had to stop and give it a go. Meant for children, it took a few tries to make it across without my butt skidding along the ground. A grandma and her grandchild played on the slide and before long we were chatting. This woman had not left the island since she was 13. She talked of other places, mentioning heading down east to an aunt's house or nieces wedding. I assumed down east meant Rhode Island or Maine or Massachusetts. Down east to her meant just a car ride away, east on the island which is not technically east but is referred to as down east by the locals because that is how the boats would sail heading downwind in that direction. She had no desire to leave the island because she had not yet explored all of PEI. She said she and her husband would retire to her aunt's home down east to get away from the hustle and bustle. Hustle and bustle? We were the only ones at the park and the I didn't see a single car the entire time we were there. It was so quiet and peaceful with the birds chirping in the background and not a sound of noise pollution. I am not quite sure what hustle and bustle she was referring to (maybe us?) but I simply cannot imagine how she would feel in any city in the United States.

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