Riding west from Natashquan, the winds were strong in our face making for slow miles, but the roads were very flat, weaving along the water. It was a beautiful ride. Although we fought with the wind for the first day or two, it was not too bad because we were happy to simply be on the bikes. With that said, it was a bit trying by day three. One stretch of road outside of Havre-St. Pierre, we were averaging 4mph through the taiga, flat areas of land with few trees to block any wind. Every few mile markers, we would swap places in front to take the brunt of the gusts, giving one another a break. Of course Ryan was taking the majority of the unpleasant riding, letting me come in close to block as much of the wind as possible. Thank you kind husband:-) I thoroughly embrace and appreciate his mentality, which is if he makes me comfortable and happy, chances are we will continue doing something he loves. Perfect! The strong winds blew us all over the road, making it especially tough in sections of road without a shoulder combined with the trucks using the highway. This occurred on and off all the way through to Godbout. Intense wind, no shoulder and massive trucks made it at times a bit scary and frustrating, but nevertheless, we made it safe and sound.
Ryan's 39th birthday was celebrated on the 29th of August and was spent riding into extremely gusty wind. After sleeping off the highway behind high shrubbery, we woke bright and early at 5:15am to start riding when the winds would be calmest during the first part of the day. With the crack of daylight, we were on the road by and unfortunately the winds were already blowing. Riding from west of Mingan to Long Point, we covered 36 miles (60k) in 6 1/2 hours. Yikes! Talk about a tough day. We stopped at a delicious restaurant for their Hot Chicken special, a pulled chicken sandwich smothered in gravy and topped with peas, a dollop of coleslaw on the side and a large helping of fries. This came with a bowl of soup as an appetizer, coffee and chocolate cake for dessert. Happy birthday, Ryan! It was quite delicious and our tab was even picked up by the random woman who helped us order because the waitress could not speak English and our only French are spoken in two sentences. "I do not speak French. Do you speak English?" I would try and write this is French, but I haven't the faintest idea how. Regardless, I know my pronunciation is incorrect, so spelling it out is not the way it comes out of my mouth. The random act of kindness was extremely appreciated and definitely brought smiles to our faces.
Tired with sore legs, we decided to take our first stab at hitch hiking with loaded bicycles. We stood at the edge of the gas station with our thumbs out, chilled by the winds and overcast skies. After an hour and only two stopped vehicles offering to take us 6 miles up the road, a mother and son from Montreal, travelling the coast towing a self made trailer, stopped and offered us a ride west. This was the start of the rest of the day spent with Madeleyne and Antoine. We camped together at a campground in Port Cartier (they drove us 100 miles) and chatted over wine, bread, cheese, spreads, pesto pasta and rice. It was an absolutely wonderful way to spend Ryan's birthday, and we both feel so lucky to have had the opportunity to meet these beautiful people. The greatest lesson I have learned through all of this travel is that people are people and almost all are good. I hope to carry the compassion and wisdom I have gained over these past two years in all aspects of my life in the future.
Sleeping in a campground is always a treat and I definitely tend to sleep more soundly knowing we are truly allowed to be camped in this spot. A restful nights sleep, breakfast with our new friends and we were back on the bikes for a day of blue skies, light wind and a shoulder. Leaving Port Cartier at 2pm, we wanted to cover 50 miles to be close enough to Godbout that we were hoping to reach the following morning by 11am to catch the ferry to Matane. Calling for storms and more strong winds, we camped 25 miles outside of Matane, leaving at 7am to catch the ferry. More strong wind in our faces and plenty of rolling hills, we were both exhausted. Our legs ached and we just felt whooped. It is amazing how much the wind takes it out of you when on a bicycle. Making it to the ferry terminal by 10am, to our dismay, we learned we had the winter schedule and missed the ferry by 2 hours. Ugh! Well, at least we rode the majority of the miles in the morning hours when the wind is less strong and we could take the rest of the day off in Godbout.
The food has progressively gotten less expensive and more delicious the further west we travel through Quebec. We had a fairly tasty breakfast for $5 a piece, coffee included. Not too shabby. Once again, we pulled out of tent, fly and groundsheet to dry out from the previous nights rain when a scary storm quickly overtook us. Huge bolts of lightning could be seen just a few miles away and the massive drops fell quickly. We took cover at the Boulangerie that is also a B&B. We have not stayed in a hotel since Central America, so thought, why not? Let's splurge and treat ourselves. It was time. The place was simply beautiful, run by two men who could not have been nicer. Newly renovated within the last few years, we had first pick on our choice of room. I was so happy to be in a bed and in a house to do whatever I pleased that I did not leave from when we arrived at 1pm on Friday until 11am on Saturday. The shower was phenomenal, allowing me to relax with a book or the computer wrapped in a fluffy bathrobe. Yes, I was in heaven. Breakfast was diced apples covered with yogurt and granola and a thick slice of fresh cranberry french toast served with jam. Money well spent. Now off on the ferry to Matane.
Ryan's 39th birthday was celebrated on the 29th of August and was spent riding into extremely gusty wind. After sleeping off the highway behind high shrubbery, we woke bright and early at 5:15am to start riding when the winds would be calmest during the first part of the day. With the crack of daylight, we were on the road by and unfortunately the winds were already blowing. Riding from west of Mingan to Long Point, we covered 36 miles (60k) in 6 1/2 hours. Yikes! Talk about a tough day. We stopped at a delicious restaurant for their Hot Chicken special, a pulled chicken sandwich smothered in gravy and topped with peas, a dollop of coleslaw on the side and a large helping of fries. This came with a bowl of soup as an appetizer, coffee and chocolate cake for dessert. Happy birthday, Ryan! It was quite delicious and our tab was even picked up by the random woman who helped us order because the waitress could not speak English and our only French are spoken in two sentences. "I do not speak French. Do you speak English?" I would try and write this is French, but I haven't the faintest idea how. Regardless, I know my pronunciation is incorrect, so spelling it out is not the way it comes out of my mouth. The random act of kindness was extremely appreciated and definitely brought smiles to our faces.
Tired with sore legs, we decided to take our first stab at hitch hiking with loaded bicycles. We stood at the edge of the gas station with our thumbs out, chilled by the winds and overcast skies. After an hour and only two stopped vehicles offering to take us 6 miles up the road, a mother and son from Montreal, travelling the coast towing a self made trailer, stopped and offered us a ride west. This was the start of the rest of the day spent with Madeleyne and Antoine. We camped together at a campground in Port Cartier (they drove us 100 miles) and chatted over wine, bread, cheese, spreads, pesto pasta and rice. It was an absolutely wonderful way to spend Ryan's birthday, and we both feel so lucky to have had the opportunity to meet these beautiful people. The greatest lesson I have learned through all of this travel is that people are people and almost all are good. I hope to carry the compassion and wisdom I have gained over these past two years in all aspects of my life in the future.
Sleeping in a campground is always a treat and I definitely tend to sleep more soundly knowing we are truly allowed to be camped in this spot. A restful nights sleep, breakfast with our new friends and we were back on the bikes for a day of blue skies, light wind and a shoulder. Leaving Port Cartier at 2pm, we wanted to cover 50 miles to be close enough to Godbout that we were hoping to reach the following morning by 11am to catch the ferry to Matane. Calling for storms and more strong winds, we camped 25 miles outside of Matane, leaving at 7am to catch the ferry. More strong wind in our faces and plenty of rolling hills, we were both exhausted. Our legs ached and we just felt whooped. It is amazing how much the wind takes it out of you when on a bicycle. Making it to the ferry terminal by 10am, to our dismay, we learned we had the winter schedule and missed the ferry by 2 hours. Ugh! Well, at least we rode the majority of the miles in the morning hours when the wind is less strong and we could take the rest of the day off in Godbout.
The food has progressively gotten less expensive and more delicious the further west we travel through Quebec. We had a fairly tasty breakfast for $5 a piece, coffee included. Not too shabby. Once again, we pulled out of tent, fly and groundsheet to dry out from the previous nights rain when a scary storm quickly overtook us. Huge bolts of lightning could be seen just a few miles away and the massive drops fell quickly. We took cover at the Boulangerie that is also a B&B. We have not stayed in a hotel since Central America, so thought, why not? Let's splurge and treat ourselves. It was time. The place was simply beautiful, run by two men who could not have been nicer. Newly renovated within the last few years, we had first pick on our choice of room. I was so happy to be in a bed and in a house to do whatever I pleased that I did not leave from when we arrived at 1pm on Friday until 11am on Saturday. The shower was phenomenal, allowing me to relax with a book or the computer wrapped in a fluffy bathrobe. Yes, I was in heaven. Breakfast was diced apples covered with yogurt and granola and a thick slice of fresh cranberry french toast served with jam. Money well spent. Now off on the ferry to Matane.
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