8am and still groggy from a fairly awful nights rest. Cockroaches, a few gunshots (celebratory?), constant noise from the youngsters living in the hotel and the load speaker in town carrying on well into the night made for a rough nights sleep. We loaded up and made our way into town to fill our water and eat some breakfast. The corner shop run by an older woman and her grand-daughter working hand in hand with ease and comfort to accommodate the majority of town that seemed to be waiting patiently for their cooking. The older woman slowly grabs the homemade tortilla dough from a large bowl, occasionally dipping her hand in a bucket of water before placing the balled dough between 2 metal sheets and firmly pulling the lever down to make tortilla at a time. Using the wood burning method, she places each tortilla on the hot bowl like surface and easily maneuvers the tortillas every 10-15 seconds to make the perfect tortilla. We ate a large quesadilla willed with frijoles and queso, a local Oaxacan cheese most similar to a stringy and salty mozzarella. Absolutely delicious. The homemade salsa served with each plate is always the best. Next on our list, getting past the next blockade.
Getting into town was interesting and we could see the outgoing road was blocked as well. Riding up, there was once again a bus, boulders and logs blocking the road and people gathered in groups under the one shady tree. Without a word and eyes only on us, two gentlemen pushed aside a log and we easily rode through and were on our way. Phew... Much easier than anticipated and a lot less scary than the other side with machetes and guns.
Our next few hours were spent in the seat climbing, making the first of a few necessary big climbs over the southern Sierra Madres. Although it was hot and steep, this climb was nothing like climbing over the heart of the Sierra Madres into Oaxaca. Maybe being prepared with food and water also helped. Our newest trick for quick energy, pop tarts. Even when we are not hungry with all the heat but can feel our energy being zapped, a quick stop for a pop tart always tastes good and is instant energy.
Climbing for the majority of our time, we eventually came to the town of Vidrio where we could either head left to Puerto Escondido or right to Santa Catarina Juquila. 15 kilometers down the road to Santa Catarina Juquila sits a church that hundreds of people a year travel the steep mountain roads climbing thousands of feet on bicycles to make the pilgrimage and pay their respects. A small 12-inch statue of the saint has been housed here since the 1600's that supposedly will grant one wish to everyone, even to those non-believers. Kudos to all who make the journey because this is not an easy ride. Meeting a fellow cyclist (who carries many extra pounds of circus equipment to perform and make money along his travels.....Ricardo from Puebla would not be happy), he informed us that the rest of the way, all 65 miles between us and Puerto Escondido, was downhill. Like fools we are, we believed him and were sadly mistaken. Never trust a clown.
5pm, the sun is setting and we decide to carry on. Surprise, surprise, we instantly have 45 more minutes of climbing, reaching the 160k marker on the road before our true descent. Dry desert behind us and muggy rainforest lying ahead. Quite the contrast to say the least. With smiles on our faces, we strapped on our helmets (often taking them off when climbing without much traffic because it is just too hot) and began to coast. The road was fairly ok for probably 8k before true natural cobble stones. Yikes. All I kept thinking about was the shake weight. Who needs a shake weight when you can just coast down a Mexican mountain? A bit painful and trying to avoid large potholes as well, we came across a newly paved road. Could this be true? Slick as glass and smooth as calm water in the middle of the ocean with no wind, we were gliding down the mountain, mist filled the air and moisture was covering us. Peaceful and perfect with the sounds that only a rainforest can make accompanied our evening. The only problem was daylight. Looking for a place to stash our tent for the night, we instead found a newly refurbished cuartas, run by an extremely nice woman and her mother. I love the family values here. Everyone is so close knit and they work together to make a life. How beautiful. If you happen to be riding this way, we would recommend this place for a stop. A large sign out fronts reads "Organic Coffee". Once again we lucked out and resorted to our emergency supply of Ramen with tuna. Not the best meal,but is appreciated when in that circumstance. Cold shower, a clean bed and reletively full bellies......heaven.
Getting into town was interesting and we could see the outgoing road was blocked as well. Riding up, there was once again a bus, boulders and logs blocking the road and people gathered in groups under the one shady tree. Without a word and eyes only on us, two gentlemen pushed aside a log and we easily rode through and were on our way. Phew... Much easier than anticipated and a lot less scary than the other side with machetes and guns.
Our next few hours were spent in the seat climbing, making the first of a few necessary big climbs over the southern Sierra Madres. Although it was hot and steep, this climb was nothing like climbing over the heart of the Sierra Madres into Oaxaca. Maybe being prepared with food and water also helped. Our newest trick for quick energy, pop tarts. Even when we are not hungry with all the heat but can feel our energy being zapped, a quick stop for a pop tart always tastes good and is instant energy.
Climbing for the majority of our time, we eventually came to the town of Vidrio where we could either head left to Puerto Escondido or right to Santa Catarina Juquila. 15 kilometers down the road to Santa Catarina Juquila sits a church that hundreds of people a year travel the steep mountain roads climbing thousands of feet on bicycles to make the pilgrimage and pay their respects. A small 12-inch statue of the saint has been housed here since the 1600's that supposedly will grant one wish to everyone, even to those non-believers. Kudos to all who make the journey because this is not an easy ride. Meeting a fellow cyclist (who carries many extra pounds of circus equipment to perform and make money along his travels.....Ricardo from Puebla would not be happy), he informed us that the rest of the way, all 65 miles between us and Puerto Escondido, was downhill. Like fools we are, we believed him and were sadly mistaken. Never trust a clown.
5pm, the sun is setting and we decide to carry on. Surprise, surprise, we instantly have 45 more minutes of climbing, reaching the 160k marker on the road before our true descent. Dry desert behind us and muggy rainforest lying ahead. Quite the contrast to say the least. With smiles on our faces, we strapped on our helmets (often taking them off when climbing without much traffic because it is just too hot) and began to coast. The road was fairly ok for probably 8k before true natural cobble stones. Yikes. All I kept thinking about was the shake weight. Who needs a shake weight when you can just coast down a Mexican mountain? A bit painful and trying to avoid large potholes as well, we came across a newly paved road. Could this be true? Slick as glass and smooth as calm water in the middle of the ocean with no wind, we were gliding down the mountain, mist filled the air and moisture was covering us. Peaceful and perfect with the sounds that only a rainforest can make accompanied our evening. The only problem was daylight. Looking for a place to stash our tent for the night, we instead found a newly refurbished cuartas, run by an extremely nice woman and her mother. I love the family values here. Everyone is so close knit and they work together to make a life. How beautiful. If you happen to be riding this way, we would recommend this place for a stop. A large sign out fronts reads "Organic Coffee". Once again we lucked out and resorted to our emergency supply of Ramen with tuna. Not the best meal,but is appreciated when in that circumstance. Cold shower, a clean bed and reletively full bellies......heaven.
Even though your trek is taxing your endurance, food and water reserves - it sounds heavenly and you are experiencing yet another way to make life work. Thank you for showering us with words and pictures. Truly, heaven is where we are! Loving you! Mom
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