Leaving Finca Ixobell, we started riding fairly early, close to 8am and on a road that climbed for 10k. Piece of cake. The sun was out, the humidity already rising quickly and the road was smooth. Great start to our day. The first 20 miles were on a paved road but as we turned right at San Luis, the route turned to a rocky, gravel, rutted nightmare. After a steep initial climb and a short snack to boost our spirits, we were ready for the uncomfortable miles ahead. A few k's and we were back to pavement. Phew! My hands were starting to hurt. Riding Surly Long Haul Truckers, we do not have any frills like suspension. Opting for durability in our gear, even our tires each weigh 2.2lbs. These bikes have been perfect for us thus far, not causing any problems more than a rubbing fender, squeaky brakes or loose cables. Nothing that actually has to do with the bikes themselves. After 15k of more paved roads, we were back to a bumpy ride and loose rocks. What I would have given for suspension and biking gloves (I gave those up along with my biking shorts back in Germany). We had 40+ miles of this route and it was nothing short of absolutely awful.
A fellow cycle tourist had emailed and recommended this route calling it a "rewarding ride". I think he and I have VERY different ideas of rewarding. I hit my wall and this road almost beat me. 2 years into riding and even on the toughest days, I could still say that I absolutely loved what we were doing and wouldn't trade the trials and tribulations for anything. In this instance, I would have gladly given up touring all together to simply be done with this road. How awful is that? Talk about hitting a low point! Ugly conversations going on in my head and a lot of cursing to say the least.
Seven hours later and still on the bumpy ride, we came to a water park in the middle of nowhere which was busy with the hard working Guatemalans getting ready for the upcoming holiday week of Semana Santa. Ryan approached a couple of armed men, one with a rifle and the other with a pistol, and asked if we could possibly pitch our tent on their property for the evening. On a side note, Central America always brings up surreal situations like this... why do people working at a water park need to be armed? Anyway, el jefe gladly agreed and could not have been nicer. Use of the showers and the natural spring pool, we threw together our last bits of what we could to concoct a dinner and were asleep before 9pm. Saved again by the generosity of strangers!
Although the road was a challenge and required constant attention on the front wheel to stay upright, the few glances around that we managed provided absolutely stunning scenery. Luscious, almost fluorescent green foliage covered the rolling hills. It was hard to imagine one making their way through the thick jungle before the roads and clearing of the forest. Small towns exist around random curves and we again hear children's shrieks of, "Gringo! Gringo! GRINGOS!" Sometimes even dropping what they are carrying to run along with our bikes. It's pretty cute. The heavy loads people carry here are incredible. Using only fabric tied so that a flat piece can rest across their foreheads, they carry such loads as massive bundles freshly cut wood. It is incredible. One time I even saw a man, probably in his mid 60's, with a large 4 drawer dresser strapped to his back with only a cloth around his head to support the whole load. Unbelievable! These people are tough.
The following day we had 7k more on the gravel road before hitting the wonderfully smooth, newly created pavement. Oh sweet, sweet asphalt, how I never knew how great my love was for you. The town of Fray Bartoleme seemed to be just a strip along the main highway. Cars, collectives, motos, bicycles and people weave their way chaotically through one another, but somehow it works. There are plenty of food stands and an open market. We were introduced to fresh empanadas at this point, a simple dough with a bit of beans inside. 1 quetzal each. Why, I think we will have 8 por favor. A quick stop at the grocery store to resupply on snacks and we were ready for the next 20 miles of flat road with the wind at our back. Pure heaven and I quickly remembered why I love this life so much.
Knowing we would be coming upon another 20 miles of uphill rutted, gravel roads, a collectivo was on our (I should probably say mine rather than "our") minds. Riding as far as we could, we flagged down a collectivo that actually stopped for once. Thank you positive thinking! Bikes and gear on top, we were stuffed inside with the locals for the 2 1/2 hour ride over the mountains and along the awful road. That was possibly the best $10 we have spent.
Once the gravel stopped and the pavement began, we were dropped off at the start of the road descending 1400 feet to the town of Lanquin. Another 10k of downhill riding on terrible roads. Frustrated and annoyed (gosh, as I write this, I am realizing how big of a baby I am and how much of I wuss I sound like! I apologize, but it was such a trying time for me in life....unlike anything I have ever before experienced. I am definitely getting soft)....again. Reading other touring blogs, people make these rides all the time. Yes, I too wonder why these rougher roads get inside my head. I switched from riding to walking to riding. This calmed my nerves and another 2 1/2 hours, we reached the camping spot at El Retiro. If you are reading this and plan to ride this route, don't worry, I'm sure it will not take you nearly as long. El Retiro was a cheap option to tent and stay along a beautiful river, but it was not as tranquil as we had hoped. Tomorrow, off to Semuc Champey! I hope this hellish ride was worth it.
A fellow cycle tourist had emailed and recommended this route calling it a "rewarding ride". I think he and I have VERY different ideas of rewarding. I hit my wall and this road almost beat me. 2 years into riding and even on the toughest days, I could still say that I absolutely loved what we were doing and wouldn't trade the trials and tribulations for anything. In this instance, I would have gladly given up touring all together to simply be done with this road. How awful is that? Talk about hitting a low point! Ugly conversations going on in my head and a lot of cursing to say the least.
Seven hours later and still on the bumpy ride, we came to a water park in the middle of nowhere which was busy with the hard working Guatemalans getting ready for the upcoming holiday week of Semana Santa. Ryan approached a couple of armed men, one with a rifle and the other with a pistol, and asked if we could possibly pitch our tent on their property for the evening. On a side note, Central America always brings up surreal situations like this... why do people working at a water park need to be armed? Anyway, el jefe gladly agreed and could not have been nicer. Use of the showers and the natural spring pool, we threw together our last bits of what we could to concoct a dinner and were asleep before 9pm. Saved again by the generosity of strangers!
Although the road was a challenge and required constant attention on the front wheel to stay upright, the few glances around that we managed provided absolutely stunning scenery. Luscious, almost fluorescent green foliage covered the rolling hills. It was hard to imagine one making their way through the thick jungle before the roads and clearing of the forest. Small towns exist around random curves and we again hear children's shrieks of, "Gringo! Gringo! GRINGOS!" Sometimes even dropping what they are carrying to run along with our bikes. It's pretty cute. The heavy loads people carry here are incredible. Using only fabric tied so that a flat piece can rest across their foreheads, they carry such loads as massive bundles freshly cut wood. It is incredible. One time I even saw a man, probably in his mid 60's, with a large 4 drawer dresser strapped to his back with only a cloth around his head to support the whole load. Unbelievable! These people are tough.
The following day we had 7k more on the gravel road before hitting the wonderfully smooth, newly created pavement. Oh sweet, sweet asphalt, how I never knew how great my love was for you. The town of Fray Bartoleme seemed to be just a strip along the main highway. Cars, collectives, motos, bicycles and people weave their way chaotically through one another, but somehow it works. There are plenty of food stands and an open market. We were introduced to fresh empanadas at this point, a simple dough with a bit of beans inside. 1 quetzal each. Why, I think we will have 8 por favor. A quick stop at the grocery store to resupply on snacks and we were ready for the next 20 miles of flat road with the wind at our back. Pure heaven and I quickly remembered why I love this life so much.
Knowing we would be coming upon another 20 miles of uphill rutted, gravel roads, a collectivo was on our (I should probably say mine rather than "our") minds. Riding as far as we could, we flagged down a collectivo that actually stopped for once. Thank you positive thinking! Bikes and gear on top, we were stuffed inside with the locals for the 2 1/2 hour ride over the mountains and along the awful road. That was possibly the best $10 we have spent.
Once the gravel stopped and the pavement began, we were dropped off at the start of the road descending 1400 feet to the town of Lanquin. Another 10k of downhill riding on terrible roads. Frustrated and annoyed (gosh, as I write this, I am realizing how big of a baby I am and how much of I wuss I sound like! I apologize, but it was such a trying time for me in life....unlike anything I have ever before experienced. I am definitely getting soft)....again. Reading other touring blogs, people make these rides all the time. Yes, I too wonder why these rougher roads get inside my head. I switched from riding to walking to riding. This calmed my nerves and another 2 1/2 hours, we reached the camping spot at El Retiro. If you are reading this and plan to ride this route, don't worry, I'm sure it will not take you nearly as long. El Retiro was a cheap option to tent and stay along a beautiful river, but it was not as tranquil as we had hoped. Tomorrow, off to Semuc Champey! I hope this hellish ride was worth it.
Hey Ryan and Lisa!
ReplyDeleteWe had the pleasure to meet you in Coban at Casa Luna and hear about your adventures (American guy and the German guy with the Breckenridge t-shirt). We kept our eyes open for you at the lake and around San Pedro but did not see you until we were on the way up the road from Panajachel! We wanted to beep the horn but then we figured you would not know who the heck was honking at you! We are glad you safely made it to the lake. During our trip up to Tikal and back we decided we would see if you had a blog and simply typed "two people from boulder biking the world guatemala" and found it! We wish you the best for the future and look forward to following your blog! :) If by chance you bike through Guatemala City shoot me a message!
Cheers!
Freddy and Lucas