Monday, April 16, 2012

Semuc Champay - Coban (finding a town that is often overlooked by travelers)

Running into Saskia, a lady we met in Finca Ixobell, at El Retiro, the three of us walked into town to catch a collectivo for the hour ride to Semuc Champay. Saskia speaks fluent Spanish, which of course helped us negotiate a cheaper rate in the back of the truck... 15 quetzals ($2) per person. The truck had an open bed in the back with a metal frame welded on to allow people to hold tight while standing during the jolting ride over the rocky and hilly ride. It was quite a trip. I am guessing we were stuffed amongst 30+ people, stopping occasionally to drop off or pick up locals. Although the ride is an hour, it is actually only 9k down the road.

Semuc Champay is an absolutely spectacular and beautiful place. There are multiple pools fed by natural springs, and small waterfalls trickle down the rocks which can also be climbed, connected each pool. The water is completely clear and the water is cold enough to cool you off from the heat of the sun and warm enough to not be a shock to the body. The water is surrounded by lush foliage, possibly feeling a touch southern Asia. It is an almost perfect place and was worth the effort to get there.

Although tempting (ok, I'm lying), we rode into Lanquin and found a collectivo to drive us up hill 2,000 feet on the gravel road. We gladly avoided the difficult road and steep inclines. Phew.

The road to Coban is smoothly paved with rolling hills, possibly sitting a few hundred feet above Pajal. The road winds its way through trees and shrubbery and provides amazing views of the desolate land of Guatemala that seems to carry on forever, untouched by humans. This mountainous country is one of the most beautiful we have been fortunate enough to travel through.

Coban is a surprisingly fantastic city, possibly the truest functioning city we have seen in Guatemala and Mexico that is not thriving because of tourism. Riding through town on our bicycles, popping in and out of hotels checking for prices, we came upon our first decorative street for Semana Santa. Stopping on our bikes to admire the colorful picture being made by an older woman, all eyes turned on us. The woman smiled, asked us if we wanted to help while she chuckled. Heck yeah we want to help! Off to find a hotel where we luckily came across the recommended Hostel Luna, a quaint, cheap and safe place to stay. We quickly dropped off our gear and were on our way to help decorate for Semana Santa. How lucky!

Semana Santa is a week long celebration prior to Easter. Each day, a different street is responsible for decorating and providing offerings along the road where processions walk slowly while carrying extremely heavy caskets and religious murals. The ground is decorated with dyed sawdust placed in cutout patterns and is extremely time consuming to construct. Ryan and I spent close to two hours, and we were two of six people helping to create a unique picture. Our fingers were dyed green and purple for days. Wow, what an experience.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Coban, walking through the national forest, exploring the market, drinking delicious coffee (which is oddly enough difficult to find in Guatemala as most people drink instant granules) and eating the street food. Both Ryan and I love finding the hidden gems that are often overseen and not included in guide books. We would gladly spend a few daysin the future immersing ourselves amongst the people of Coban.

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